Build a Bantry Bay gig Oar! 

The ten Bantry Bay gig oars have four different lengths: 
  • The bow oar is a #1 oar, and is 4320 mm / 14 ft 2 in
  • The second seat from the bow is a #2 oar, and is 4930 mm / 16 ft 2 in
  • The third seat from the bow is a #3 oar, and is 5320 mm / 17 ft 6 in
  • The fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth seats from the bow are all #4 oars, and are 5600 mm / 18 ft 4 in 
  • The ninth (second stroke) and tenth seats (stroke seat, closest to the stern) are #3 oars, and are 4930 mm / 16 ft 2 in

The Atlantic Challenge International Oar Building Rules: 
"Oars shall be constructed of wood. The maximum width of the oar blade is to be 5 3/4 inches (146mm). The maximum length of the blade is 68 inches (1727 mm). Tapered blades (narrower at the inboard end) are highly encouraged. Spoon shaped blades and hollow shafts are not allowed."

Here are some oar building and woodworking instruction tips by Wes Reddick of Belfast, Maine. We built a #3 oar in this video but many of the tips and process can be applied to any of the oar lengths. Videos below are approx. 3 minutes long. 
Below are the new oar plans drawn by Wes Reddick, March 2025. There are minimal differences than the prior oar blade plans above, but notice that transition from the neck to the blade is straighter. The main goal with the slight design modifications was to stay within Atlantic Challenge oar building rules, while creating the most balanced oar as possible. The primary concept for a balanced oar is to have most of the weight inboard, and to have the oar remain light, yet strong, outboard. We also aimed to reduce the amount of wood waste from the build as much as possible. We're very happy with the results!

We can also mail you a copy of the new oar building plans. We printed ours on 11x17 inch paper. 
1. Source the lumber. We used a spruce core, and glued on douglas fir to the loom. 
2. Decide which end of the spruce core will be the blade end or the grip end based on grain direction. 
3. Extend the spruce core with a scarf joint to the meet the total oar length requirement. Put the scarf joint in the blade end. 
4. Make the first scarf joint cut. 
5. Get the scarf joint surface flat. 
6. Prepare the other half of the scarf joint to extend the blade. 
7. Glue the scarf joint to extend the blade. 
8. Glue the Doug fir pieces to either side of the spruce core to make up the loom. 
9. Glue on the blade pieces. Design and cut a template for the oar blade.
10. Transfer the blade template onto the glued oar pieces.
11. Use a level to shape the oar to get it square (we have to make it square first before making it round).
12. Turn the square oar into an octagonal one and eventually a round one. Use a spar gauge to find out where to put the spiling lines (method for transferring lines onto a square object to be able to then to make it round). Start shaping the oar with a drawknife, bench plane, and spokeshave.
13. Shape the blade and loom. Aim to have a 17 - 18 ft oar (The #3 and #4s) weigh around 20 lbs once fully trimmed.
14. Shape the grip end (the handle) of the oar.